Tourist Haven to War Zone: Chin State’s struggle to rebuild

Chin State, known as the land of “Taung Zalatt”—Red Rhododendron flowers—comes alive each year from December to February. The symbolic blossoms paint Chin State’s Mount Victoria in vibrant hues. During this season, the hilltop towns surrounding the peak would typically be bustling with travelers drawn to its breathtaking landscapes and picturesque villages. But the rural villages of southern Chin State have fallen silent as war engulfs the country. Once-popular tourist hubs have become battlegrounds, with violence driving visitors away and forcing tens of thousands of residents to flee. As Myanmar ranks among the world's most dangerous destinations, the once-thriving local tourism industry has collapsed, leaving villages abandoned four years after the February 2021 coup.“Tourism business was expected to grow in our area, with the expectation of a threefold increase of visitors,” Francis, an ex-tour guide from Mindat Township, told Myanmar Now.He explained that local tourism used to boom from mid-November to February, offering a rare opportunity for some residents in the remote mountain region during the brief period of civilian rule.“Most of the tourists were from Switzerland, Germany and Israel, he said. “They came to explore the traditional houses, handicrafts and see the unique face tattoos.” Francis used to take foreign visitors to the villages of ethnic M’uun, M’kaan and Dai minorities nearby the town of Mindat. Tourists would explore the ethnic groups’ villages, learning about their traditional handicrafts and culture. Houses are decorated with the skulls of animals, placed at the doorsteps as a feat of their hunting skills and a show of strength. Some ethnic Chin minorities decorate their homes with the skulls of animals, placed at their doorsteps as a show of strength (Photo: Supplied) Francis said tourists are especially fascinated by the face tattoos of Chin women. Each ethnic group has its own distinct tattoos, symbols and images that reflect their identities and distinct traditions. The M’uun often have striking “B” or “P” pattern tattoos on their faces, while M’kaan and Dai women adorn their faces with small black dots. Magan women often completely cover their faces with dots, while Dai women leave more of their skin visible, sometimes completely untouched by ink. Yet many of these ethnic minority groups have had to flee their homes out of fear of violence. Thousands have been displaced in and around Mindat, one of Chin State’s most war afflicted towns. Before the coup, this area was brimming with unique tourist attractions for both outdoor enthusiasts and culture lovers. All of that has changed since the military takeover.Today, it has turned into a ghost town.Four years of brutal civil war have left towns across Chin State in ruins, with gutted buildings, and shattered streets. Following the collapse of the tourism industry, hotel staff, tour guides and bike drivers who lost their jobs returned to their rural villages, relying mostly on farming and hunting for their livelihoods, according to Sian Lian, a Mindat resident who worked in Myanmar’s hospitality sector before the coup. “Today, there is no income to buy rice,” he said. “So, everyone has to grow paddy on the hillsides.” The collapse of local livelihoods has also taken a toll on Mount Victoria’s fragile ecosystem. Chin State’s towns, including Mindat, have become largely abandoned since fighting in the region escalated (Photo: Supplied) Known as “Nat Ma Taung”, or “Khaw-Nu-Soum” in Chin, the highland forests, once teeming with diverse wildlife and endangered plants, now face growing environmental degradation. Since the 2021 coup, the forests have faced increasing threats due to war-driven displacement, unregulated resource exploitation, increased hunting and poaching, and weakened environmental protections, among others.The highland nature reserve covers 275 square miles of forest area. It’s designated as an ASEAN heritage park, stretched across the three townships of Mindat, Kanpetlet and Matupi, with the presence of diverse wildlife including rare bird species, leopard, deer, muntjac, and bear species.Hope for environmental preservation is not yet lost. Many of Chin State’s anti-junta groups are conscious of the importance of protecting the state’s vulnerable environment and have worked to safeguard it from destruction, according to resistance sources.Chin resistance groups have repeatedly expressed concern over hunting bears and other wild animals during the four-years of fighting, calling to protect more endangered species. “Catching jungle pigeons, bears, boars and jungle fowl is very common here,” said Salai Yaw Mang, a representative of the Chin Brotherhood’s People’s Administrative Team in Mindat Township. “If we impose a ban, it could negatively impact local livelihoods unless we can provide alternative job opportunities.”The Chin Brotherhood Alliance is a coalition of several ethnic armed organisations active in Chin State. The alliance has become the dominant armed force in southern Chin State, overseeing governance and military operations in the region. The administrative teams in each township operate under its authority, rather than under the control of the National Unity Government (NUG). Mindat’s Administrative Team also emphasises the need to establish an effective system for environmental protection and implement new regulations to redefine the boundaries of forest reserves, as dozens of villages are located within protected areas following the end of fighting. In December of last year, Chin anti-junta forces successfully overran all junta bases and liberated most of southern Chin State from the military regime. Yet the recovery of the local tourism sector in southern Chin State still faces major hurdles. Even before the tourism sector can continue, one of the most significant challenges will be first restoring the town to normalcy. Many urban centres in southern Chin State have become ravaged by war, forcing thousands to become displaced (Photo: Supplied) Although southern Chin State is now under the control of anti-regime forces, the looming threat of aerial assaults and shelling from surrounding military bases continues to cast a shadow over its recovery.“It will be extremely challenging to resume operations,” a 40-year-old guesthouse owner told Myanmar Now, expressing concerns about the daunting task of reopening hotels in conflict-affected areas. “Prices have skyrocketed, and a substantial amount of financial investment is needed to revive tourism businesses,” he said. On top of this, he added, poor road conditions and safety concerns make it a risky journey for even local visitors to travel to resistance-held areas. It’s a sentiment shared by a former tour guide who also works in the once busy area.“Roads are blocked,” he said. “And no one will come here until the fighting stops.”Back in the highlands, the sound of children playing among the iconic red flowers have now been replaced with the chilling echo of bombs exploding in the distance, warplanes roaring over the hills.Despite the hardships of war, some in Chin State remain hopeful. They believe new tourism opportunities will eventually emerge, restoring livelihoods devastated by conflict. One glance at their land’s stunning natural beauty is enough to reignite that hope.“We have many undiscovered tourist destinations in our areas,” another resident of Mindat said. “If hotels and other accommodation resume operations, I believe one day we can all return to work.”

Tourist Haven to War Zone: Chin State’s struggle to rebuild

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